Part 1: The Origin

The idea of building a subway in Mexico City began in the 1950s, a time in which the capital city of Mexico had about 4 million inhabitants (today it approaches 21 million). Old tramways criss-crossed the city, traffic jams began to boost, and the bus system wasn’t enough to fulfill all the commuter demands. It was time for a modern mass transit solution. It was until 1967 when the city government approved the construction of the first line. Officially, on June 17, 1967, the construction of the “Metro” began… The approval of its construction could be easily guessed: Mexico City would host the 1968 Olympic Games. However, the government focused in offering a mass transit option for people living in the eastern and western sections of the megacity. The first phase covered three lines: one having an east-west direction, another linking north and south, and a third one departing from the northwest heading to downtown, and then turning south, so it could cross the other two lines. This is what is called a “ring solution” in which 3 lines cross at three different points (rather than the “cross solution” in which two lines cross in one point).

After two years, the first subway line was opened on September 4, 1969. This first section runs from Zaragoza in the east, to Chapultepec in the west. At this beginning, the system had only 16 stations and it was only 11.5 km long. People were really fascinated with this new form of transportation; even a well-known TV news presenter was marveled by the new “Metro”: fast, clean and safe. In September 1970, Line 2 was opened from Tacuba in the northwest, to Tasqueña in the south, where the Xochimilco-Tlalpan light rail line ran to the southeastern parts of the city (later the Xochimilco light rail line would be entirely reformed, so it offered new stations and modern trains). Line 2 opened with 22 stations, and 18 km of track. In November 1970, the central section of Line 3, from Tlatelolco to Hospital General was opened, adding 7 stations and 5.5 km. to the network. At the same time, the extension of line 1 to Tacubaya was opened. Line 1 reached its western terminus Observatorio in 1972. So, at the end of this first stage, by 1975 Mexico City’s subway had 40 km of track and 48 stations. It is important to notice that while digging into the soil of the ancient Aztec capital, many important discoveries were made. The most important was a little circular pyramid dedicated to the Aztec God of wind, Ehécatl. Instead of moving it out and placing it in a museum, it was a good idea to leave it in the place it was found. So, around this pyramid, the Pino Suárez station (lines 1 and 2) was built. As a tribute, the pyramid was chosen as the station’s symbol.

Another interesting discovery was made while building line 4. While digging the soil for building the foundations of Talismán station, the remains of a mammoth (dated 10,000 B.C.) were found. Today, these remains are shown permanently in Talismán station, and the mammoth was chosen as the station symbol.

The subway wasn’t stopping its permanent expansion: the first section of line 6 (an east-west route linking the northern parts of the city) was inaugurated in December 1983, and line 7 would open in 3 stages (from Tacuba to Barranca del Muerto) during 1984 and 1985. Line 7 is the deepest line of Mexico City’s subway: some stations stand at 35 m below street level (not so deep compared to some European systems). Finally, two more sections were opened in this expansion stage: an extension on line 1 between Zaragoza and Pantitlán (so this would be linked to line 5), and a two station extension of line 2, reaching its definite terminus Cuatro Caminos. Cuatro Caminos was the first station built outside the Distrito Federal (Mexico City’s “official” limit), trying to be a transportation gateway to the northern suburbs.

At the end of 1985, the subway had 105 stations, distribuited on a 110 km. long network… not bad for a 10-year period!

Simultaneously, the alignment of line 8 was revised, and a new route was proposed. A first stage would run through the city center, but away from the historic area; then it would head east, then south through Iztacalco ward, and finally east to Iztapalapa ward. The solution was approved, and construction began in 1991. In August 1994, the longest subway section ever built (19 stations in 20 km) was opened, linking the southeastern neighborhoods to the city center.

Another densly-inhabited area lies in the northeastern part of the metropolitan area: the city of Ecatepec. So, after line 8 was completed, line B (originally line 10) went into construction stage. Because of financial problems, the first section was finished five years later, in December 1999, from Buenavista (Mexico City’s train station) to Villa de Aragón. Eventually the second section to Ciudad Azteca would be finished on 30 November 2000.

Located at the base of a breathtaking volcano in the mountains of Ecuador, Otavalo is only two hours north of Quito and worth the winding bus ride. The busiest market day is Saturday but there is a market in Otavalo every day of the week. The story goes that the first sale a villager makes each day is always the best price (presumably for good luck), so it’s recommended you arrive early.

The market is centered around Poncho Plaza and is filled with everything from textiles to paintings to jewelry to musical instruments including the traditional charango. The textile industry dates back to Spanish colonial days when Rodrigo de Salazar, who acquired a land grant at Otavalo, set up a weaving workshop employing the Otavaleno Indians who were already skilled weavers. With the new techniques and tools from Spain, Otavalo eventually supplied most of the textiles used throughout South America.

An incredible variety of textiles and other crafts can be found throughout the market for unbelievable prices. But beyond the bargains to be had, the experience is all the more enriched by the very artisans selling their goods.  Dressed in traditional clothing distinctive to this area, the men and women of Otavalo and the surrounding villages are a friendly and proud people and while bargaining is part of the game, you may find yourself succumbing to the irresistible smiles.

While some accounts trace the origins of the tango to a country dance of 17th Century England, most recognize it’s evolution into the dance we know today as beginning in the late 1800’s. During this time, immigrants from Africa, Europe and ports unknown found their way to the outskirts of Buenos Aires and lived in conventillos (large houses inhabited by several families). It was here in the underbelly of the thriving city that the emotion and expression of the tango made it’s debut and interestingly, the dance was deemed obscene by upper society.

But disdain for the tango wouldn’t last. When Ricardo Guiraldes, a respected upper-class poet from Argentina, toured Europe in 1910, he endeared the fashionable Parisians to the tango with a poem called “Tango” accompanied by a tango performance. This would mark the beginning of many latin dance crazes to sweep Europe, and with the favourable reception of the tango by high society Parisians, Argentine high society saw this dance in a new light.

Since then, the Tango has morphed and evolved in both musicality and dance style. For example, there is a striking difference between Argentine tango and ballroom tango. While ballroom tango has the partners arching their upper bodies away from each other and maintaining contact at the hip, Argentine tango is nearly the opposite with dancers’ upper bodies being closer than the hips and heads touching or nearly touching. Then there is salon tango which is characterized by slow, measured, and fluid moves with a close but flexible embrace and with the walk being the most significant element of the dance. And mention must be made of Gotan Project, a Parisian band whose tango-based music is layered with electronic beats and heavily influenced by house music.

Today the tango has experienced a resurgence in popularity with younger generations and a visit to Buenos Aires reveals tango being performed in parks and plazas during the day and at dinner shows in the evenings. It is well worth the time to experience a dinner show where guests are not only dazzled by the tango performances (often accompanied by traditional gaucho dancing and a variety of musical solo exhibitions), but also enjoy an amazing culinary experience.

Visit this site for more information about tango dinner shows in Buenos Aires: www.argentina-tango.net For a more intimate environment, we recommend the Gala Tango show. If you’re lucky, you’ll get Nestar as your waiter…and be prepared for a steak the size of a softball!

Visiting a Urguayan estancia is surely one of the best ways to experience a beautiful and rich period of South American history.  An estancia is the equivalent of a north american ranch and became a significant part of the landscape in Uruguay, Argentina, Southern Chile, the Patagonian grasslands and the southernmost state of Brazil in the 19th century.  

Prior to 1880, estancias were massive yet simple structures constructed with thick walls of flagstone and iron window grills in the spanish colonial style. Cattle and sheep ranching were the primary activities of an estancia and with agricultural globalization between 1880 and 1920, the architectural splendor of estancias grew in proportion to the great rise of wealth in Uruguay and Argentina.     

Gauchos could be compared to a North American “cowboy” or a Mexican “charro” and prior to the far-reaching establishment of estancias and the implementation of anti-vagrancy and passport requirement laws in the 19th century, these proud and skilled horseriders roamed the countryside with their ponies and wild herds of cattle.  Much folklore and romanticism surrounds the life of a gaucho who by all accounts possessed a strong sense of identity and code of conduct, traveling at will and living off the land.  At one time gauchos took work on estancias when the mood struck but towards the end of the 19th century the freedom of this lifestyle was diminished until finally the life of a gaucho was primarily tied to the estancia.

Today estancia tourism provides travelers with a peek into a majestic era where the soul of the south american prairie unfolds under blue skies and the experience of a long-ago lifestyle of honor is easily felt through the interaction with modern-day gauchos who still represent the pride and respect for a beautiful land.  

Visit San Pedro de Timote north of Montevideo, Uruguay for an exceptional estancia experience:  www.sanpedrodetimote.com

Fernando Manzano "Papa Tortuga"

Of the eight species of turtles in the world, seven reproduce on the beaches of Mexico. They include: the Golfina, Laud, Caguama, Prieta, Carey, Verde or Green Turtle, and Lora. All of these turtles are susceptible to extinction, but the Lora is the most endangered and the least abundant. The only place in the world that the Lora reproduce are on the Gulf Coast of Mexico primarily in the states of Tamaulipas and Veracruz.

Precisely in the last state on a large and pristine beach of Tecolutla one man has committed his life to the preservation of the environment and of the turtles.  For more than 30 years Fernando Manzano has worked hard to save the sea turtles of the area especially the Lora and the Verde.

Each year Fernando Manzano is able to help free more than 20,000 turtles. Through time and experience, he has developed a process of incubating the eggs for 45 days and releasing the turtles after they are born. Turtles that are born deformed or weak are rehabilitated for a year in calcium and proteins and released the next year. The Lora are born from May to August, and the Verde are born from September to November.

Rehabilitating Lora

When the turtles are released, they travel the Gulf currents and return to the place where they were born to lay eggs. The Mayans believed the earth was a big turtle.

Dried Vanilla Bean

Gutierrez Zamora, Veracruz is the birthplace of Mexican Vanilla. It is said Cortez when he took his spoils back to Europe, Veracruz being his primary route,  included gold, silver, chocolate, and vanilla.

Vanilla is a member of the orchid family. The plant flowers the months of March, April, and May, and it is carefully grown through December when it is harvested. During the months of January and February, the beans are tediously dried and turned making sure there are no mushrooms growing on the beans while they are drying.

Vanilla Flower

Green Vanilla Bean

Vanilla Plant

Becal, Campeche

Today, and since the 1850s, the best Jipijapa hats are woven by Maya men and women in the town of Becal, Campeche. The houses of Becal are characterized by caves that have been dug about 15 feet deep into the limestone bedrock of the backyards. The Maya weavers practice their art in these caves because only here can the natural humidity of the tropical climate be spared from the heat of the tropical sun.

Cave in back yard

This atmosphere keeps the palm fronds pliable so that the weavers can painstakingly form them into hats, baskets, lamps, or anything else they choose. Hats are their most important product, and play a driving role in the economy of the village.

Home in Becal

There are five tiers that describe the quality of the Jipijapa hats of Becal. The first level hat is constructed by splitting the palm leaf to produce a long even strip. In order to make a level 2 hat, that original strip is cut in half. The resulting hat is characterized by smaller strips, a tighter weave, and a softer, lighter end-product. This continues through to the Level 5 hat. Each higher level brings an exponentially higher time-commitment for the weaver (Level 4 hats, for example, take at least four weeks to weave; Level 5 might take months) and, ultimately, a higher price for the product.

Panama Hat

Becal’s Jipijapa hats are incredibly popular and stylish; sold all over the world. They are also very practical in the way that they protect the wearer from the harmful effects of the sun while remaining surprisingly light and ventilated. One of the most impressive characteristics of these hats is their durability – Jipijapa hats can be bent, folded, twisted and crushed and will always return immediately to their original form.

Hammock weaving in traditional dress

The hammock culture is very interesting in that it involves a large process from the products development to the end user. The manufacturing of Trova Hammocks does not include a large factory where people come to work everyday, but the hammocks are made in Mayan homes in the Yucatan. The hammocks are fairly traded in that the materials are delivered to the homes of the families, in certain communities, where on average the body of a hammock a day is made. Next, the hammocks are taken to another pueblo where the arms are put on the hammocks by other families. This is done for consistency and checks and balances. After the hammocksare complete, the families are paid a fair price to compensate for their time and patience to help them sustain their families and live more comfortably. Finally, the hammocks are delivered to Trova´s warehouse in Merida where they are inspected three times, repaired if needed, packaged, and delivered to the end user.

Blake with Mayan Family

The culture of the hammock does not only include the people that enjoy lying in their hammocks relaxing, reading their favorite books, and taking siestas, but it also includes over 500 families feeding their children, sending their children to school, and maintaining a comfortable and sustainable lifestyle in the beautiful and special towns of the Yucatan.

Hammock weaving in home

Blake with Poc Family